The Baths’ – The Natural Wonder of the British Virgin Islands
There are few places on earth that are quite so stunningly beautiful, quite so awe inspiring as the Baths on Virgin Gorda’s south-west point. On a stretch of coastline that runs for about a mile it’s almost as if a giant has sprinkled boulders randomly onto a white sand beach and some rolled to a stop near the water, while others piled high, some balanced precariously one on top of the other, and yet others cracked on impact. In reality there is a geological answer to the spectacular formations at the Baths.
The origin of the boulders has been the topic of speculation for years, but now we can eliminate many conjectures. The boulders were not hurled up onto the beach by a tempestuous storm; they were not disgorged by a volcano or carried here by a glacier of a long- gone Ice Age. The boulders and the wonderful natural sculptures they form are due to geological processes and weathering that have occurred over eons of time.
The indications are that the origin of the boulders occurred about 50 million years ago (give or take a few hundred thousand) when molten rock known as magma pushed its way upwards, cooled and solidified forming large slabs of mineral rich granite.
This became exposed due to faulting and uplifting of the sea floor and today large parts of Virgin Gorda are composed entirely of granite. The boulders are often described as enormous, house-sized and gigantic, and although their size is imposing it is not their only remarkable quality. On close examination, one finds that the boulders exhibit an assortment of different shapes and forms that stimulate the imagination. Nature’s incredible sculpting is often enhanced by the various moods of sun and sea. Spray makes glistening sheens on rock surfaces while late or early rays of the sun can add mystical qualities. These wonderful creations are revered by those who have an appreciation for the continuing evolution of nature.
There are three distinct forms that prevail either singularly or in combination: the rounded boulder, the pitted and/or fluted boulder and the hollow boulder. Add to these the amazing, and sometimes impossibly balanced boulders and you have all the ingredients for an art gallery whose works rival great human sculptors like Henry Moore.
THE TRAILS
Trail a) begins at the car park and leads to the beach at the entrance to the Baths.
Soon after beginning the trail, and right in the middle of the path, you will come across a dish-shaped balanced boulder – and no, it won’t topple at the touch of your index finger as you might expect.
As you approach the beach turn left passed the kiosk. Enter the trail by crouching under two boulders that form a narrow opening and – there it is, the ‘Grand Cavern,’ the most photographed spot in the BVI. It’s a spectacular cave with a pool of water being continuously cleansed by the sea. At certain times of the day rays of sunlight shine through openings in the cavern’s ceiling and make shimmering reflections on the massive boulders inside.
Now, follow the trail up the well-worn rock with the help of the rope hand-hold until you come to ‘Neptune’s Hideaway.’ After the next set of pools, you will come to a wonderful hollowed boulder at the top of a short ladder, so cavernous it could, and probably does, provide shelter for a whole herd of goats. After a couple of hairpin turns you exit the grottoes to enjoy magnificent vistas and the ‘Anvil’ set in a sea of translucent turquoise. This impossibly balanced rock looks like it would topple at the faintest touch…and it’s been there for fifty million years!
The boulders eventually become less numerous until finally you come to beautiful Devil’s Bay, an incongruous name indeed for such a heavenly bay of fine white sand interspersed with boulders. This is an ideal spot for a snorkel, swim and a rest.
The trail continues up to the car park winding its way past various cacti and a surprising number of other indigenous plant species. Before reaching the car park there grows a tree that looks something like a silver birch but has a red peeling bark, hence its name, ‘The Tourist Tree.’ Other names for this unusual tree are turpentine tree, and gumbo limbo.
Trail b) begins at Devil’s Bay
Walk to the southern end of the beach and you’ll find the trail, well identified through some low rocks. A short walk will bring you out at Stoney Bay. This sandy beach, interspersed with rocks, is often deserted and with many split and cracked boulders in the vicinity, has a rugged, untamed feel about it, in contrast to the serenity of Devil’s Bay. Another bay will be encountered before the trail ascends to ‘Skull Rock.’ The name of this hollowed boulder is self-explanatory.
Trail c) starts at a point several hundred yards north, along the road, from the ‘Top of the Baths’ restaurant and shops.
There’s a National Parks sign. If you have a dinghy and are moored at the Baths, you can beach it at Spring Bay and join the trail there. Alternatively, you can dinghy to Valley Trunk Bay and access the trail there if Spring Bay is designated as ‘off limits.’
As you descend from the road to ‘The Crawl’ you’ll pass some interesting trees. Then, as you approach the beach there are several pitted and fluted boulders, one that looks like a perfect throne. The Crawl, a derivation of corral, is a crystal-clear mini swimming pool. At one side a boulder rises vertically from the pool and has become popular for rock jumping.
Beware, though, the depth of water is no more than about 5-ft and diving head first would be dangerous. In bygone days this pool was used as a corral for fish, lobster and turtles – perfect larder before the days of refrigeration.
At this point the trail splits: you can walk south along beautiful Spring Bay beach but there is no access to the Baths. Please note that the lane to Guavaberry Vacation Homes is private.
From the Crawl it is possible to walk all the way to Valley Trunk Bay although the last leg is quite a challenge with a rock climb over slippery boulders. Huge cracked boulders are visible here as well as some with red/brown and others with green traces in them probably denoting the presence of iron and copper. The trail is worth it if you wish to see some of the millionaire beach-front homes in their spectacular setting. Valley Trunk Bay is so magnificent with its palm-lined beach and crystal water that it is often referred to as ‘Brochure Beach.’ Charter yacht captains use the photo op. for their advertising campaigns. A dinghy ride up the coast and back will capture many fine views and photo-ops.
SNORKELING AT THE BATHS
Just as the landscape above water is unique so are the underwater vistas. Piles of boulders make for plentiful hideaways, caves and grottoes that are perfect for marine habitats. Not only that but corals and other marine organisms that attach to rounded boulders present a very different seascape, unique in the Caribbean.
There are three distinct areas for snorkeling: The first is from Devil’s Bay and south around the rocky point. Care must be taken if you proceed further round to the windward side of the peninsular, especially if the sea is choppy.
In the shelter of the bay there are some wonderful grottoes with new stands of elk horn and stag horn coral and soft corals like the beautiful purple sea fan. Many of the underwater species are particularly interesting to watch here because they are not inundated by encroaching species. The Christmas tree worm and the feather duster anemone disappear into their tube homes if you get too close or if you entice them to retreat with the wiggle of your finger. Further on round you are likely to see jacks and barracudas and perhaps a turtle.
Between Devil’s Bay and The Baths is a long stretch of caves and grottoes. You might see a flounder here, it’s a flat fish, a chameleon, that changes appearance as it swims over different backgrounds. You’ll likely see large snappers and groupers and if you dive down into the shady grottoes schools of copper sweepers can be seen. Schools of bright incandescent blue tangs like it here as well and often swim out to the boats to eat from algae and weed adhering to boat bottoms. Sergeant–majors, parrot fish, angel fish and other common reef fish are all here.
The snorkeling off the Crawl is particularly interesting because of the labyrinthine grottoes and the schools of large fish that inhabit them. There are yellow snappers, yellowtails, and moray eels that hide in the crevices. You might be lucky enough to see a nurse shark under a ledge – one of the few sharks that can lie motionless for long periods of time.
The area of ‘The Baths’ is unquestionably the most fascinating in the BVI. It is a place of outstanding natural beauty: one of the wonders of the world. It behooves all of us to remember the adage: Take only pictures: leave only footprints.
